what is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents

2 min read 01-03-2025

what is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents

Alkaline perms, also known as cold waves, are a popular hair styling method. But what makes them work? The magic lies in the active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate (ATG). This chemical is the key to breaking and reforming the disulfide bonds in your hair, allowing for a lasting curl. Understanding ATG is crucial to understanding how alkaline perms achieve their results. This article will delve into the chemistry of ammonium thioglycolate and its role in the alkaline perm process.

Understanding Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)

Ammonium thioglycolate is a reducing agent. This means it's capable of adding electrons to other molecules. In the context of a perm, this electron donation is what breaks the disulfide bonds that hold your hair's structure together. Disulfide bonds are strong covalent bonds, and ATG’s reducing power is necessary to weaken them sufficiently for restructuring.

The Chemistry of the Perm Process

The perm process involves several steps, all relying on ATG's properties:

Reduction: The alkaline solution containing ATG penetrates the hair shaft. The ATG breaks the disulfide bonds, allowing the hair's structure to become more pliable. The alkalinity of the solution helps the ATG penetrate the hair.
Restructuring: Once the bonds are broken, your hair is manipulated into the desired curls using rollers or rods.
Oxidation: A neutralizer (typically hydrogen peroxide) is applied. This neutralizer oxidizes the ATG, allowing the disulfide bonds to reform in their new positions, setting the curl.

Without ATG's reducing properties, this restructuring wouldn't be possible. The hair would simply return to its natural shape after the rollers are removed.

Why is ATG used in Alkaline Perms?

ATG is chosen for several reasons:

Effective Reduction: It's highly effective at breaking disulfide bonds at a relatively low concentration, minimizing potential damage.
Cost-Effective: It’s relatively inexpensive to produce, making alkaline perms a more affordable option compared to other methods.
Controlled Process: The reaction with ATG can be controlled by adjusting factors like the solution's pH and processing time.

Safety Considerations

While effective, ATG is a chemical and should be handled with care. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely. Improper use can lead to hair damage, including breakage and scalp irritation. Proper ventilation is crucial during the process. If you experience any adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a professional.

Alkaline Perms vs. Acid Perms: A Quick Comparison

While both alkaline and acid perms achieve similar results, they differ in their active ingredients and processing methods. Acid perms, often called "acid waves," use a different active ingredient, typically glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTG). Acid perms tend to be gentler, but may not be as effective on coarser or resistant hair types.

Conclusion

Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) is the active ingredient that drives the process of alkaline perms. Its ability to break and reform disulfide bonds allows for lasting curls. However, remember to always use alkaline perms responsibly and follow instructions carefully to minimize the risks of hair damage. If you're considering an alkaline perm, consult a professional stylist for advice tailored to your specific hair type and condition. They can help ensure you achieve your desired look safely and effectively.